Our Man in Granada

Gonna Miss Flora

Now this stuff is good.

I was never much of a spirits drinker before but Nicaragua's Flora De Cana is universally loved by locals and gringos alike. I've yet to meet anyone who doesn't smack their lips at the very mention of the stuff.

I've tried it numerous way.  Personally it works best for me with a splash of soda and a twist of lime but it's good with ginger ale too.  It's just so smooth - even neat it slips down without the slightest twinge.

This particular bottle is for Vladimir whose had the thankless task of attempting to teach us Spanish.  Ourwoman's good progress is testimony to his teaching ability, my slow progress is testimony to my linguistic failings.

So why are we giving him presents? Well the lessons come to an end tomorrow as we prepare to head off. 

Yes, we're cutting our Nica adventure short. More info soon.

Side note: If anyone is looking for a translator/guide/Spanish teacher then I can't praise Vladimir highly enough.  If you want his email address then drop me a line.

The Lingo

If someone tells you to learn Spanish before you travel in Central America then listen up.

I was told that on my first visit.  I did a week in school in Antigua, Guatemala then promptly forgot it all when I met a fluent speaker and we toured together.  She did language, I looked after the finances and worked out transport logistics.

If it's possible to just about get by on a trip, it is impossible to be an independent,expat, non-Spanish speaker.  As I write I have just returned from the ATM.  I gave up - unlike Vietnam the instructions are in one language only.

My mobile phone, bought with the assistance of a Spanish speaking friend, lies unused because I can't work out how to put credit on it. 

Go to a restaurant, even one aimed at tourists and the chances are the menus are only in Spanish and the waiters do not speak English.

In so many ways it is actually quite refreshing.  It's no bad thing that the onus is on the gringos to conform to the local language.

But I'm embarrassed already to be continually asking people to help out, make calls for me and generally spoon feed me. 

I'd planned to stall the Spanish lessons until my girlfriend arrives in a little under a month so we can learn together at a cheaper rate.  I may have to have a rethink.

One thing is certain - not speaking Spanish in this town is very very uncool.

Not making the effort to learn is deemed most shameful of all.

I shall be aiming to put that right very soon.

Learn Spanish the Smart Way

Language teacher and blogger Simon of Amstelladagain who writes of "life, linguistics and laphroaig" in Hungary has been giving me some tips on getting to grips with Spanish.

The following was originally in my comments section here but deserved a post of its own.

The pic is of me in Antiqua, Guatemala, four years ago when I spent a week doing Spanish lessons at the outset of a Central American tour.   I have to admit, I was hopeless.

Learning the Language

"This (learning Spanish) is more than a matter of respect for Nicaraguan Culture and appreciation for where you are.  It is a practical necessity.  English speaking Nicaraguans are few and far between ... your Spanish skills are all that stand between you, adventure and disaster." Living Abroad in Nicaragua

The above quote is not something that gladdens the heart of someone as linguistically challenged as me.  I leave Vietnam knowing how to argue over prices, say "hi" and "how are you" and ask directions.  I also know a dozen different words and phrases all essentially meaning "you are crazy".

But learning even that small amount, was not fun.

Spanish, however, will be different.  It has to be different.

Firstly, as everyone keeps telling me, Spanish is a whole lot easier than Vietnamese.  None of those pesky tones to deal with.  Well not to the same extent anyway.

So, in order to make a start, I've subscribed to Coffee Break Spanish which has been uploading itself to my Ipod faster than I can listen and learn.  I don't drink enough lattes I guess.

On the downside I do appear to be learning Spanish Spanish, as opposed to Central American Spanish, and to make matters worse, the teachers are bizarrely Scottish. They also have an irritating habit of banging on about how many listeners they have when all you really want is for the lesson to start.

For this reason, amongst many others, the male and female team have already earned four-lettered nicknames with which we address them as we parrot back our holas.

Other plans for fluency inside a targeted six months, include ongoing Spanish lessons, possibly of the immersion variety and definitely a trip here.  I've also signed up to Word of the Day. Although yesterday's word was the rather useless "levadura".  That's "yeast" in English.

I am, however, slightly worried that travel guru Ralf reckons:

"Avoid traveling with partners who do not share your interest in learning to speak another language..." article here.

That appears a little strong.  But I am now left hoping that my more linguistically enthusiastic girlfriend won't dump me over this.

I'll keep you informed of our progress, plus any subsequent break up.