It's beauty isn't tricksy in this respect. It's not the Carribean. It's not emerald-water-surrounded Thai islands.
It's not snow covered peaks.
But there is just a feel about the place. My fears as to what to expect diminished the very second I stepped off the boat. It feels so magical. Strangely it reminds me of the mystical feeling I get at Glastonbury - conjured up usually by tales of its historical King Arthur and Avalon connections and, I suspect too much festival marijuana smoke.
But I digress.
As beautiful as it's twin peaked volcanoes may be they aren't so unusual. Up close, the odd palm tree aside it could be Northern England or Scotland.
But closer inspection and a little research makes you realise that the cackling in the trees isn't crows. It's bright green parrots. The only freshwater sharks anywhere in the world are in that water The island itself is the largest in a lake anywhere.
As someone who is fascinated by the island I was still shocked by a fellow backpacker's shot of a croc spied at the side of the road. I never knew even knew they were there.
Face west and the sunsets can be extraordinary. Last time they were quite honestly the most amazing I have ever seen. This time, while more muted, they still created this incredible big-sky-wonderment. You suddenly realised you were whispering. Like you didn't want to interrupt nature.
It's also, for me, represents the best of Nicaragua. Unlike certain places elsewhere it is still green. Still under developed and free from the maddening rubbish that litters everywhere else. It's free also from petty crime. They laughed at us when we requested locks for our hire bikes.
If you want activity there's the volcanoes to climb. Waterfalls to trek to and swimming holes to hang out in. There's that lake too - with its black volcanic sands.
I still love it.
I hope I'll find the time to go back again.
The rest of you please stay away. Sorry.
I saw it first.